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Recette: Cannelés bordelais

A lucky few Chouchous* were able to get their hands on the genuine article recently at one of the Lingua Franca Summer Schools, so what’s so special about cannelés?

A speciality of the Bordeaux region, the cannelé is a delicious rum-and-vanilla flavoured sweet treat with a custardy centre and caramelised shell. Named for their pretty fluted cylinder shape (‘canelé’ or ‘cannelé’ is the French word for ‘fluted’), cannelés bordelais are a staple of pâtisseries from Paris to Perth.

The best part? With some common kitchen ingredients ­– and this simple *recette – they’re also *assez facile to make at home. Bonne chance (and don’t forget to bring some to your next class)!

Bon appétit*!

Merci au Journal des Femmes pour la recette*.


*Teacher’s Pets | *recipe | *quite easy | *Enjoy! | *Thank you to Women’s Journal for the recipe.

Le Travel Planner on Bordeaux

If you’ve been coming to le nid* for a while, you’ll no doubt have heard mention of un homme français* named Xavier. Un vrai ami* of Lingua Franca, Xavier is passionate about travel, having lived and worked in Paris, Bordeaux, Copenhagen and Brisbane.

With a bespoke travel consultancy, aptly named Le Travel Planner, Xavier is just the man to turn to for a curated itinerary for your next Euro adventure. To give you a taste of his talents, we’ve teamed up with Xavier to create a series of short videos covering five fabulous French destinations.

First on the list? Bordeaux – the location of this year’s Lingua Franca summer school (alongside Paris, bien sûr*). Enjoy!

*the nest | *a French man | *A true friend | *of course

The Cheesemonger Olympics exists (and, yes, we're drooling)

Paris 2024 might fast be approaching, but there’s another lesser-known (yet equally illustrious) event we were recently obsessed with – the Cheesemonger Olympics! Taking place from 10-12 September in Tours, France, Le Mondial du Fromage pitted 16 competitors against each other to determine who was the big cheese, so to speak, of cheesemongering.

Fromage* aficionados from near and far applied to take part in the competition, with Brisbane’s very own Stephanie Stevenson, from Le Fromage Yard in Morningside, making the cut. Félicitations*, Steph!

At the event, the world’s best cheesemongers completed a multiple-choice test, took part in a blind tasting, were judged on their cutting accuracy, prepared the ultimate cheese plate, and delivered a 5-minute presentation on a cheese of their choice – among other challenges.

Find out more about the Mondial du Fromage in the video below.

Malheureusement*, Steph didn’t make it onto the winners’ podium, with Frenchman Vincent PHILIPPE taking out the top prize. Mais nous sommes toujours très impressionnés*!

Here’s what Stephanie had to say when we caught up with her just before she jetted off… 

CONGRATS ON BEING CHOSEN TO COMPETE IN THE ‘CHEESEMONGER OLYMPICS’! HOW DID THAT HAPPEN?

I had to complete several tasks for the application process. Part of the criteria is to work a minimum number of years in the industry, create a 10-cheese plate with a detailed description on each, a one-page writeup of a cheese from Australia (mine was on Granny's Blue from Prom Country) and a few other bits and pieces. In all honesty, I didn't think I would get in, haha. 

HAVE YOU ALWAYS BEEN OBSESSED WITH CHEESE?

For as long as I can remember, there was always a cheese and charcuterie plate at my family dinners, but it wasn't till I moved overseas that I really went a little crazy. This was often acknowledged by my husband and his family in France. 

HOW DID LE FROMAGE YARD COME ABOUT?

I had an idea of sharing my overseas experience and was lucky enough that my husband was keen to support a crazy hunch and be involved. Le Fromage Yard technically started before we even landed in Australia. We were still overseas and contacting distributors here until we thought, 'Why not just source the products ourselves?', and shifted our view to exporting in France.

Le Fromage Yard was established in 2015 (literally within 6 months of arriving back in Australia) and we attended markets around the Gold Coast and Brisbane. We now have a fromagerie in Morningside and still attend the Powerhouse Markets every 2nd and 4th Saturday and Manly on the 1st and 3rd Saturday of each month. 

DO YOU HAVE ANY SPECIFIC CHEESE-RELATED QUALIFICATIONS?

In all honesty, I started with no skills, qualifications, or any formal training. However, hard work can achieve great things. I read information online, I ate, I looked for changes in the cheeses and tried to make connections as to what was happening. It has only been in the last two years I have undertaken formal online study in the UK.

It appears that dedicated cheesemonger training has only just arrived in Australia through the same UK program. I hope that more support will be given, and it will turn into more serious qualifications and evolve into an apprenticeship. 

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF CHEESEMONGERING?

There are so many cheeses out there that you can never get bored! There is always something new and interesting to try. I would also have to say a huge part of enjoying the job is our customers (we are so lucky with how amazing they are) and being a part of so many significant milestones in their lives (birthdays, weddings, family get-togethers, anniversaries, proposals etc). It is pretty special to be trusted in helping them create a memorable day! 

PART OF THE COMPETITION INVOLVES CREATING A CHEESEBOARD. DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR THE BUDDING HOST? 

My first tip for creating the ultimate cheese board is to chat with your local cheesemonger – they will question you and find what you are looking for. I cannot say how enjoyable it is when someone trusts you to help them create something delicious! When in doubt, keep it simple – a soft, hard, and blue option. Ask your cheesemonger what the popular options are. Feeling more adventurous? Ask what is eating well or ripe! 

WHAT CHEESE ARE YOU LOVING RIGHT NOW?  

A new goat's milk camembert! It is a lot more subtle than the traditional French chevre, but its gooey, supple texture is to die for, and it still has the incredible zesty, acidity many goat cheeses have. We visited the farm last trip to France, and I think I am just as obsessed with their agricultural ethos as I am with the cheese.

I'm also LOVING Ironbark from Long Paddock. We are proudly the first to stock their products in QLD and they have just started their raw milk production of Ironbark, which is just incredible! 

SO HOW ARE YOU FEELING IN THE LEAD-UP TO THE COMPETITION?

Extremely nervous and very out of my league! However, I believe sitting in your comfort zone does not develop your skills or knowledge, so I figure there is nothing to lose and everything to gain. 

WHAT DOES THE COMPETITION INVOLVE?

The competition runs over an entire day, and we will be expected to complete a number of tasks within a designated amount of time. I will complete a multiple-choice test, blind tasting where I need to identify the cheese, age, milk variety, manufacturing technique and age, a presentation on a cheese, accurately cutting 4 x 250g cuts of cheese, a single person platter, an appetizer, a cheese preparation, a large 1m X 1m cheese platter on a theme and cheese carving/artistic presentation. 

BONNE CHANCE*! WILL YOU BE EXTENDING YOUR STAY PAST THE COMPETITION?

I think I struck gold as Slow Food is in Italy the week after my competition! This was something I have been dying to attend, so it was a no-brainer to stay for another week. We will be staying near Alba in Piedmont and attending some cheese classes and the cheese festival and sampling some delicious wine from the region! 

*Cheese | *Congratulations |*Unfortunately | *But we are still very impressed! |*Good luck

Stephanie and her husband Pierre

Sneak Peek into le Nid | Nos Signes

Fancy yourself as a bit of an armchair astrologer? Then you’ll love this month’s sneak peek into le nid*. Voici les signes du zodiaque* of the Lingua Franca team – plus some of our (best and worst) characteristics.

IMAGES

*the nest | *Here are the star signs

La Petite Histoire

If you've ever done a group lesson here at Lingua Franca, you've probably come into contact with La Petite Histoire*. A tale with the very humblest of beginnings, it winds up becoming a rollicking schlockbuster as you move up the levels and your French improves enough to handle the outrageous (some would say impossible) turns of events of the six young friends.

La Petite Histoire is currently only available to our students, however La Préquelle is for everyone’s enjoyment. Below, another instalment of this new series, Chapter 2 of the Intermediate Revision level.

*The Little Story | *The Prequel

“Bon, dis-moi tout, Hervé. Je te connais très bien et j’ai vu le regard entre vous deux. Tu as quelque chose à me dire ?” J’étais énervée, mais c’est vrai que j’avais un peu peur aussi à propos de ce que mon frère allait me dire.

“Ben, non c’est rien, Leïla,” il a dit, mais il rougissait un peu et était mal à l’aise. C’était clair.

“Rien ? Je l’ai vu, Hervé ! En fait, j’en ai vu deux ! Pourquoi vous vous regardiez comme ça ?” j’ai insisté.

“C’est juste que tu avais l’air un peu inquiet à propos de ta conversation avec Jean-Louis,” il a répondu.

“Et, alors ?” j’ai demandé.

“Alors, récemment, je ne sais pas comment dire ça, mais Amina et moi, nous avons l’impression que peut-être tu n’es pas complètement heureuse,” il a admis. Il avait une expression grave.

“Comment ça, pas heureuse ?” j’ai demandé. “Hervé, c’est normal ! J’ai trois petits enfants, je fais mes études et j’ai un mari qui…”

“Qui…” a répété Hervé. “Qui quoi, Leïla ?”

“Un mari qui…” j’ai commencé, mais je n’étais pas capable de terminer la phrase. Qui était la femme que j’avais entendu quand j’ai appelé ? Ou est-ce que je l’imaginais ? Perdue dans mes pensées, j’ai sursauté lorsque mon frère a pris ma main avec douceur.

“Leïla, écoute-moi. Comme je t’ai dit, tu me connais très bien. Ben, je te connais très bien aussi, tu sais. Je n’ai pas besoin de connaître les détails, mais je veux que tu saches que tu peux toujours me parler. Je suis là pour toi. Amina, aussi. On t’aime bien, Leïla, et on ne veut pas que tu sois malheureuse. C’est une des raisons pourquoi on t’a demandé de nous accompagner lors de ce voyage. On voyait que tu étais soucieuse, et on s’est dit que ça serait une bonne idée pour toi de venir avec nous pour changer tes idées un peu. Tu es ma petite sœur et mon rôle est de te protéger.”

“Me protéger de quoi exactement, Hervé ?” j’ai demandé, “Je ne suis plus une enfant.”

“Je connais ça bien, Leïla. Peut-être que ‘protéger’ n’était pas le bon mot. Je veux m’assurer que tu sois heureuse, c’est tout.”

“Merci, j’e l’apprécie bien, Hervé. Et tu n’as pas tort. Je ne suis pas totalement heureuse mais je ne sais pas pourquoi. Je vais réfléchir un peu. Peut-être que j’essaie de trop faire en ce moment, avec les enfants, mes études, tout ça. Ce n’est pas facile de tout jongler, tu sais,” j’ai admis. “C’est pour cette raison que je suis tellement connaissante d’être ici, avec vous. Je ne peux pas le croire !”

“Profite bien, alors, frangine !” Hervé a dit et il a souri chaleureusement. “Et n’oublie pas qu’on est toujours là pour toi.”

“Merci mon frangin,” je lui ai dit. “Je l’apprécie beaucoup.”

“Right, tell me everything, Hervé. I know you very well and I saw the look between you two. Do you have something to say to me?” I was annoyed, but it’s true I was also a little afraid about what my brother was going to say to me.

“Well, no it’s nothing, Leïla,” he said, but he was blushing a little and was ill at ease. It was obvious.

“Nothing? I saw it, Hervé. In fact, I saw two of them! Why were you looking at each other like that?” I insisted.

“It’s just that you seemed a bit worried about your conversation with Jean-Louis,” he responded.

“And, so?” I asked.

“So, recently, I don’t know how to say this, but Amina and I, we’ve got the impression that perhaps you’re not totally happy,” he admitted. He had a serious expression.

“What do you mean, not happy?” I asked. “Hervé, it’s normal! I have three little kids, my studies and I have a husband who…”

“Who…” repeated Hervé. “Who what, Leïla?”

“A husband who…” I started but I was incapable of finishing the sentence. Who was the woman I heard when I called? Or was I imagining it? Lost in my thoughts, I jumped when my brother took my hand kindly.

“Leïla, listen to me. You said you know me very well. Well, I know you very well, too, you know. I don’t need to know the details, but I want you to know you can always speak to me. I am here for you. Amina, too. We really love you, Leïla, and we don’t want you to be unhappy. It’s one of the reasons we asked you to come with us on this trip. We saw that you weren’t yourself, so we said to ourselves that it would be a good idea for you to come with us to get away from it all for a bit. You’re my little sister and my role is to protect you.”

“Protect me from what exactly, Hervé?” I asked. “I’m not a child anymore.”

“I know that, Leïla. Maybe ‘protect’ wasn’t the right word. I just want to be sure that you’re happy, that’s all.”

“Thank you. I really appreciate that, Hervé. And you’re not wrong. I’m not totally happy but I don’t know why. I’m going to think about it a bit. Maybe I’m trying to do too much at the moment, with the children, my studies, all that. It’s not easy to juggle it all, you know,” I admitted. “That’s why I am so grateful to be here, with you. I can’t believe it!”

“So make the most of it, sis!” Hervé said and he smiled warmly. “And don’t forget I’m always there for you.”

“Thanks bro,” I said. “I really appreciate it.”

La Petite Histoire

If you've ever done a group lesson here at Lingua Franca, you've probably come into contact with La Petite Histoire*. A tale with the very humblest of beginnings, it winds up becoming a rollicking schlockbuster as you move up the levels and your French improves enough to handle the outrageous (some would say impossible) turns of events of the six young friends.

La Petite Histoire is currently only available to our students, however La Préquelle is for everyone’s enjoyment. Below, another instalment of this new series, the first chapter of the Intermediate Revision level.

*The Little Story | *The Prequel

“C’est officiel. J’adore Londres !” Hervé a dit, en regardant autour de lui.

“Moi aussi,” Amina a répondu, en buvant son verre de vin blanc. Nous étions assis sur la terrasse d’un petit pub rue Neal avec les enfants. Il faisait beau, il y avait beaucoup de personnes dans les rues du quartier et l’ambience était fantastique.

“C’est tellement agréable d’être ici de nouveau” a continué Amina. “J’ai de très bons souvenirs de cette ville.”

“Et toi, Leïla, tu as passé une bonne journée ?” a demandé mon frère.

“Pardon ?” ai-je dit.

“Ça va, Leïla ? Tu as l’air distrait” a dit Amina, ma belle sœur. “Ou peut-être tu es fatiguée finalement ? Nous avons fait la sieste, mais pas toi. Tu veux rentrer ? On peut manger à l’hôtel si tu veux.”

“Non, c’est gentil, Amina, mais tout va bien. Alors, qu’est-ce qu’on va manger ?” ai-je demandé pour changer le sujet.

“Je peux avoir le poisson et les frites, maman ?” a demandé Anouk.

“Oui, bien sûr, ma chérie… si tu peux le dire en anglais.”

“Je voudrais….ze…feesh and ships, s’il te plaît.”

“Très bien, ma chérie. Je suis fière de toi. Peut-être qu’un jour tu feras un échange ici en Angleterre, comme ta tatie Amina.”

“Les autres enfants te manquent, Leïla ?” a demandé Amina.

“Oui, bien sûr. Elles me manquent beaucoup.”

“Tu leur as parlé aujourd’hui ?” Hervé a demandé.

“Oui, cet après-midi. Enfin, j’ai appelé pour dire coucou mais elles dormaient,” ai-je expliqué.

“Ah, quel dommage, Leïla,” a répondu Amina. “Jean-Louis va bien ? Il a tout sous contrôle ?”

J’ai regardé la carte avec attention et je n’ai rien dit.

“Qu’est-ce qu’il y a ?” a demandé Hervé, concerné.

“Ah, ce n’est rien. C’est juste que… ah non, ce n’est pas grave,” ai-je dit, hésitante.

J’ai levé la tête et j’ai vu un regard passer entre Hervé et Amina.

“Quoi ?” ai-je dit. “Pourquoi vous vous regardez comme ça ?”

“On ne se regardait pas, Leïla. De quoi tu parles ? Continue, tu disais quelque chose,” a dit Hervé.

“Ce n’est rien, c’est juste que j’avais l’impression que Jean-Louis ne voulait pas trop me parler,” ai-je admis. J’avais trop peur de leur réaction en disant que j’ai cru entendre la voix d’une femme inconnue quand j’ai appelé.

Hervé et Amina se sont regardés une deuxième fois.

“Et voilà ! Vous venez de vous regarder encore ! Qu’est-ce qu’il y a ?” Je devenais un peu agitée.

Amina a rougi, et elle s’est tournée vers les enfants. “Alors qu’est-ce qu’on va manger, les filles ?”

Hervé n’a rien dit.

“Et, alors ?” J’ai regardé Hervé. Tu veux dire quelque chose ? Dis-le, Hervé ! J’ai vu le regard entre vous deux. Qu’est-ce qu’il y a ? Dis-moi !”

“Excusez-moi,” a dit Amina timidement. “Je vais aux toilettes avec les enfants avant que nous mangions.”

“Très bien,” a dit Hervé, et Amina s’est levée et s’est dépêchée d’aller vers les toilettes avec les filles.

“Bon, elle est partie. Dis-moi tout, Hervé.”

“It’s official. I love London!” Hervé said, looking around him.

“Me too,” Amina responded, drinking her glass of white wine. We were seated on the terrace of a pub on Neal Street with the kids. It was nice weather, there were lots of people in the streets of the area and the atmosphere was fantastic. “It’s so nice to be back here again,” continued Amina. “I have very good memories of this city.”

“And you, Leïla, did you have a good day?” asked my brother.

“Sorry?” I said.

“Are you okay, Leïla? You seem distracted,” said Amina, my sister-in-law. “Or maybe you’re tired finally? We had a nap, but not you. Do you want to go back? We can eat at the hotel if you want.”

“No, that’s kind, Amina, but everything’s fine. So, what are we going to eat?” I asked in order to change the subject.

“Can I have the fish and chips, Mum?” asked Anouk.

“Yes, of course, my darling…if you can say it in English.”

“I would like….ze…feesh and ships, please.”

“Very good, my darling. I am proud of you. Maybe one day you’ll do an exchange here in England like your Aunty Amina.”

“Are you missing the other children, Leïla?” asked Amina.

“Yes, of course, I’m missing them a lot.”

“Did you speak to them today?” Hervé asked.

“Yes, this afternoon. Well, I called to say hi but they were sleeping,” I explained.

“Oh, what a shame, Leïla,” responded Amina. “Is Jean-Louis going well? Does he have everything under control?”

I looked at the menu attentively and didn’t say anything.

“What’s wrong?” asked Hervé, concerned.

“Oh, it’s nothing. It’s just that…oh no, it’s not serious,” I said, hesitantly.

I lifted my head and saw a look pass between Hervé and Amina.

“What?” I said. “Why are you looking at each other like that?”

“We weren’t looking at each other, Leïla. What are you talking about? Continue, you were saying something,” Hervé said.

“It’s nothing, it’s just that I had the impression that he didn’t want to talk to me too much,” I admitted. I was too scared of their reaction to say that I thought I heard an unknown woman’s voice when I called.

Hervé and Amina looked at each other a second time.

“And there you go! You’ve just looked at each other again! What is it?” I was becoming a bit agitated.

Amina blushed and she turned towards the children. “So, what are we going to eat, girls?”

Hervé didn’t say anything.

“And, so?” I looked at Hervé. “Do you want to say something? Say it, Hervé! I saw the look between you two. What’s up? Tell me!”

“Excuse me,” said Amina timidly. “I’m going to the toilets with the girls before we eat.”

“Very well”, said Hervé, and Anna got up and hurried towards the toilets with the girls.

“Right, she’s gone. Tell me everything, Hervé.”

What is this thing?

When the complexities of another language confound you, sometimes you just have to laugh. Case in point the long-winded enquiry, “Qu'est-ce que c'est que cette chose-là?” Literally translated as “What is this that this is that this thing there?”. Or, in actual usage, “What is that/this thing?”

It seems even the French can see the humour in this unwieldy sentence. So, if you’re un apprenant*? Best not to overthink it and, instead, commit the phrase to memory. 

Or in conversation, you could always go for le plus concis*“C’est quoi, ça?” We’ll leave it in your capable hands (and limber lips). 

*a learner | *the more concise

English makes no sense

When learning a language, you just have to shrug and accept there will be some things that make no sense at all. And, if you need un gloussement*, this video perfectly illustrates the hurdles English learners face. Quel cauchemar*!

*a giggle | *a nightmare

SWOON: Saint-Émilion

Characterised by steep, winding cobblestone streets, Romanesque churches and ancient ruins, Saint-Émilion is un charmant* Medieval village in le cœur* of the Bordeaux wine region. A must-visit for oenophiles and history buffs, the UNESCO World Heritage site takes its name from a hermetic Breton monk, Émilion, who arrived in the 8th century and was known for performing miracles.

Home to Europe’s largest monolithic church, Saint-Émilion may no longer be a place of miracles. But, as you can see, it’s still quite magical. 

*a charming | *the heart

Pictures : whatoliviadid.com

Pardon My French

If you’re looking for un livre* to tuck into this winter, we have une suggestion*. A new memoir by freelance writer and mum-of-three Rachael Mogan McIntosh, Pardon My French tells the story of an Aussie family upping sticks to spend a year in cobblestoned Sommières – a small town in the south of France.

C’est une idée tentante, non*?

The book is touted as a tale of, “Food, faux pas and Franglish – one family’s riotous year in the south of France.” And we’ve been told by a student who’s midway through that it’s a delightful, funny and easy read. (As long as you don’t mind your books peppered with blue language.)

Intrigued? Here’s the publisher’s blurb.

At the school gate, when she accidentally kissed one new friend on the nose and called another a ‘beautiful man-horse’, Rachael realised that small-town France could hardly be more different to beach-side Australia. The smell of cigarettes replaced the tang of bone-broth and sprouted sourdough, the neighbours sometimes came to blows and under no circumstances would anyone wear activewear in public. Ever.

Muddling through every interaction in terrible French pushed Rachael’s family to their limits. Some days, everybody cried and ate their feelings with almond croissants. But the town of Sommières embraced these ragtag Australians, and the family fell in love with their temporary hometown and its outrageous gossip, cobblestoned beauty and kind, eccentric inhabitants.

Pardon My French is a candid, hilarious love letter to family life and France with three valuable lessons for overcoming adversity: make home a beautiful nest, lean into the tough lessons and look for the comedy in everything.

You can buy the book on Booktopia. Or read this article written by Rachael.

*a book | *a suggestion | *It’s a tempting idea, isn’t it?

La Petite Histoire

If you've ever done a group lesson here at Lingua Franca, you've probably come into contact with La Petite Histoire*. A tale with the very humblest of beginnings, it winds up becoming a rollicking schlockbuster as you move up the levels and your French improves enough to handle the outrageous (some would say impossible) turns of events of the six young friends.

La Petite Histoire is currently only available to our students, however La Préquelle is for everyone’s enjoyment. Below, another instalment of this new series, the final chapter of the Intermediate 3 level.

*The Little Story | *The Prequel

En entrant dans la librairie, j’ai eu le souffle coupé.

“Je crois que je suis au paradis !” je me suis dit. J’ai levé la tête pour voir les cinq étages, totalement bordés de livres de toute sorte.

Tout de suite, un jeune homme s’est approché de moi. “Hello, madam, can I help you at all?”

“Bonjour, euh, pardon…Hello,” j’ai dit en rougissant.

“Vous êtes française, madame ?”

“Oui,” j’ai dit. “Vous aussi ?”

“Non, je suis anglais, mais je parle français aussi,” il a répondu en souriant. “Vous préférez parler en anglais ou en français ?”

Je voulais pratiquer mon anglais (c’était la raison principale pour mon voyage, après tout), mais je me sentais un peu timide, je dois admettre. “French?” j’ai répondu et il a rigolé.

“Oui, bien sûr, madame. Avec grand plaisir.”

“Ah merci, c’est gentil. C’est mon premier jour ici à Londres, et c’est difficile pour moi de trouver les mots en anglais en ce moment.”

“Je comprends totalement, madame. Quand j’ai étudié le français à l’université, nous avons fait un échange en France et je me rappelle très bien de mon premier jour. J’ai eu peur d’ouvrir ma bouche !”

“Mais vous parlez tellement bien français, c’est difficile à croire,” j’ai dit.

“Vous me flattez, madame,” il a dit et j’ai rougi de nouveau.

Pour changer de sujet, je lui ai dit: “Cette librairie est extraordinaire. Cinq étages de livres en anglais, c’est mon rêve !”

“Oui, moi, je l’adore aussi, mais si vous aimez la langue anglaise, vous devez visiter The Bodleian Library à Oxford. C’est magnifique. Il y a plus d’un million de livres.”

“Oh là, là !” je me suis exclamée.

“Oh là, là !” il m’a taquiné, “You really are French ! Si je peux me permettre, comment vous appelez-vous ?” il m’a demandé.

“My name is Leïla,” j’ai dit lentement.

“Well, a pleasure to meet you, Leïla. Je m’appelle Will. À votre service.”

“Enchantée, Will, mais je regarde seulement.”

“C’est dommage,” il a dit et pour la troisième fois depuis cinq minutes, j’ai rougi.

“Je dois…I have to go now,” j’ai dit et je me suis dépêchée vers la porte.

“N’oubliez pas The Bodleian, Leïla !” il a crié “Et profitez de votre temps ici en Angleterre !”

“Oh là, là !” je me suis exclamée de nouveau en fermant la porte. “Ces hommes anglais !”

Je ne savais pas exactement pourquoi, mais tout d’un coup j’avais envie de parler à mes filles.

Il y avait une cabine téléphonique rouge juste à côté de la bibliothèque. J’ai appelé l’hôtel de Jean-Louis, mais le réceptionniste m’a dit qu’il n’était pas là. J’ai décidé d’appeler la maison et j’étais surprise quand il a répondu tout de suite.

“Chéri, c’est moi. Pourquoi tu n’es pas au travail ? Où sont les filles ? Elles sont avec toi ?”

“Ma belle, comment vas-tu? Tout va bien à Londres?” Jean-Louis a demandé. Il avait l’air un peu stressé.

“Oui, super, merci. Mais tout vas bien? Où sont les filles ? Elles sont avec ta mère?”

“Ne t’inquiète pas, Leïla, elles sont ici, avec moi. Nous sommes rentrés pour récupérer plus de vêtements.”

“Oh, elles sont là ? Je peux leur dire coucou ? Elles me manquent tellement.”

“Euh….non, désolée, ma belle, elles dorment.” Jean-Louis avait l’air distrait.

“Elles dorment ? À cinq heures de l’après-midi ?”

Et là, j’ai entendu la voix d’une femme, et ce n’était pas ma belle-mère. 

Upon entering the bookstore, I caught my breath.

“I think I’m in heaven!” I said to myself. I lifted my head to look at the five levels, totally lined with books of all sorts.

Straight away, a young man came up to me. “Hello, madam, can I help you at all?”

“Bonjour, um, sorry…Hello,” I said, blushing.

“Are you French, madam?”

“Yes,” I said. “You too?”

“No, I’m English, but I speak French as well,” he replied, smiling. “Do you prefer to speak in English or in French?”

I wanted to practise my English (it was the main reason for my trip, after all), but I felt a bit shy, I have to admit. “French?” I answered and he laughed.

“Yes, of course, madam. With much pleasure.”

“Oh thank you, that’s kind. It’s my first day here in London, and it’s difficult for me to find the words in English at the moment.”

“I understand totally, madam. When I studied French at university, we did an exchange and I remember very well my first day. I was scared to open my mouth!”

“But you speak French so well, it’s difficult to believe,” I said.

“You flatter me, madam,” he said and I blushed again.

To change the subject, I said to him: “This bookstore is extraordinary. Five levels of books in English, it’s my dream!”

“Yes, I love it, too, but if you like the English language, you must visit the Bodleian Library in Oxford. It’s magnificent. There are more than a million books.”

“Oh là, là !” I exclaimed.

“Oh là, là !” he teased me. “You really are French. If I may allow myself, what is your name?” he asked me.

“My name is Leïla,” I said slowly.

“Well, a pleasure to meet you, Leïla. My name is Will. At your service.”

“Pleased to meet you, Will, but I’m only looking.”

“That’s a shame,” he said and for the third time in five minutes, I blushed.

“Je dois…I have to go now,” I said and I hurried towards the door.

“Don’t forget The Bodleian, Leïla!” he cried, “and make the most of your time here in England!”

“Oh là, là !” I exclaimed to myself again as I closed the door. “These English men!”

I didn’t know exactly why, but all of a sudden I felt like talking to my girls.

There was a red phone box just next to the bookstore.I called Jean-Louis’ hotel but the receptionist told me he wasn’t there. I decided to call the house and I was surprised when he responded straight away.

“Darling, it’s me. Why aren’t you at work? Where are the girls? Are they with you?”

“My beauty, how are you? Is everything going well in London?” Jean-Louis asked. He seemed a bit stressed.

“Yes, great, thanks. But is everything okay? Where are the girls? Are they with your mother?”

“Don’t worry Leïla, they’re here, with me. We came back to pick up some more clothes.”

“Oh, they’re there? Can I say a quick hi? I miss them so much.”

“Um…no, sorry, my beauty, they’re sleeping.” Jean-Louis seemed distracted.

“They’re sleeping? At five o’clock in the afternoon?”

“And then, I heard a woman’s voice, and it wasn’t my mother-in-law’s.

My Paris Adventure (Part 3 – La Fin)

So, two months have passed and our intrepid traveller Pip est rentrée* from her French sojourn. We touched base briefly to see how she’s recovering, any lessons learned and her top tips for any chouchous* planning a long stay in Paris.

YOU’RE BACK! THAT WENT QUICKLY…

Way too quickly! I arrived back a few days ago and am battling with jetlag and Paris withdrawals. I can’t believe that after all the planning and buildup it’s over. At the start, two months seemed quite daunting, but I definitely wasn’t ready to come home. I’d just found my groove at the end and my apartment and quartier* really felt like home.

SO, YOU LOVED IT?

Presque* every minute.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE ANYONE PLANNING A SIMILAR TRIP?

Firstly (and most importantly), make finding a decent coffee spot a priority. Otherwise you’ll end up paying $8-9 for a weak, milky cup of sludge each morning. My pick if you’re near Le Marais is the boutique Japanese chain, The Coffee. They take their brew seriously and it shows.

For easy-peasy travel, make sure you download Citymapper. This app provides amazingly clear instructions for getting from A to B, including which section of the train you should be on to land at the right exit. A total life safer for someone as directionally challenged as me! 

When people say it gets hot in summer, believe them. As a Brisbanite, I laughed off this warning. But by the end of my stay, it was STINKING hot. And the city is just not built for it.

Don’t pack exercise gear. Seriously. You’ll be doing so much walking each day that you won’t dust off your actual runners and Lululemons at all. And unless you’re staying in a hotel and plan on catching Ubers to dinner, leave les talons* at home.

Also, beware the cyclists! Trying to cross the road takes some getting used to as you need to check the bike lane as well as the traffic lights. And the cyclists tend to be un peu fou*.

WHAT ABOUT TIPS FOR LEARNING THE LANGUAGE?

It depends on your goals. For me, it was more about enjoying a change of scene and soaking up the culture and picking some more French up along the way. I had work to juggle so I wasn’t going to spend my free time studying when there was Paris at my doorstep to explore!

I highly recommend doing an immersion course (I went to Langue Appart for 4 weeks). But I think if want to learn a lot in a short time frame, there are better ways – and places – to go about it. It’s difficult to do a true immersion in Paris with so many tourists and everyone automatically switching to English when you speak.

In the future, I’d be interested to explore other options. Like a homestay in a quieter city or the countryside. Somewhere with fewer shiny distractions. And I’d also book private lessons.

Another thing… I had an Aussie friend stay with me for two weeks and that, while one of the highlights of my stay, put my French back a lot. So, if you’re serious about improving, dit non* to any English-speaking visitors.

ANY OTHER TIPS FOR THINGS TO SEE, DO, EAT?

I won’t list all my favourite spots in Paris as it would take all day (and I’ll get too nostalgic/ hungry). But I would recommend you book most of your activities well in advance as they book out.  

Look at Discover Walks, too. They operate free, tip-supported tours in different parts of Paris and the guides are great. The one I did in Montmartre was exceptional.

Finally, try to factor in some free time. With so much to do and see, it’s tempting to schedule every minute. But my favourite moments were often unplanned – discovering hidden parks and pop-up shops, enjoying an impromptu spritz in the gorgeous courtyard at Le Musée Carnavalet or strolling aimlessly around town for White Night and La Fête de la Musique. Being une flâneuse* in Paris is one life's great joys. 

*has returned | *teacher’s pets | *neighbourhood | *nearly | *high heels | *a bit mad | *say no | *urban spectator who walks around not doing anything in particular but watching people and society