Beurre d'Isigny
Although not a stand-out star of French cuisine like foie gras or confit de canard, the taste of le beurre français* is nonetheless sure to remind you of your travels.
There are three butters in France which have been granted their own AOP (appellation d’origine protégée*), which guarantees they will be produced in a consistent and traditional manner, with ingredients from specifically classified producers in certain geographical areas.
When we heard that Chouquette in New Farm will soon be selling arguably the best of these butters, Beurre d’Isigny, we thought it time to lift the lid on why French butter tastes better.
There are three main reasons for the goût supérieur*.
French butter typically has a higher fat content (quelle surprise!*). Where Australian butter usually has a fat content of around 80%, French butter can go as high as 87%, which accounts for its texture onctueuse*.
Isigny-sur-Mer, the town which gives its name to the butter, is an important centre of dairy production in Normandy. Apart from butter, Isigny is also the home of Mimolette, Pont L’Évêque and Camembert cheeses. With a mild, damp climate and proximity to the sea, les vaches* graze on grass rich in iodine and particularly beta carotene which gives the butter its storied buttercup-yellow colour.
French butter is also cultured, a process whereby live active cultures are added to the cream before the butter is churned. Though this process is now deliberate, in days gone by, bacteria formed in the butter as farmers waited to have enough cream to churn. In any case, it is the fermentation process that means the butter takes on its own lightly tangy flavour, and in the case of Beurre d’Isigny, leaves a slightly hazelnut trace en plus*.
*French butter | *protected designation of origin | *superior taste | *what a surprise! | *creamy texture | *the cows | *as well
Did you know?
Walt Disney’s forefathers came from Isigny (his surname is a variation on the town’s name). So if you’re ever at Disneyland Paris you can be assured the butter will be of superior quality, since, in a show of loyalty, only Beurre d’Isigny is served. More about Disney’s French connections here…